 Surfing is the kind of sport where the person sits out past the break and is waiting for a wave to come so they can paddle and try to catch it before it breaks so that they can ride it and get a good ride. You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up.
People in Hawaii made huge wood boards and would get in the water and paddle themselves out in the water and then paddle and ride the waves as they broke over the shallow sand or reefs. They were later made from lighter wood and wood soon become made out of fiberglass and epoxy. That is because they wanted to make surfboards more durable yet light weight and easy to carry and use. If they were not easy to carry and use then nobody would be surfing today because there are many people who have to walk for awhile before they can surf and nobody wants to carry a hundred pound wood surfboard. That would be horrible to have to carry a piece of wood down the beach until you got to your spot and then you jump in the water and the water just water logs the wood surfboard that is the main reason why I can see why people changed the surfboard.
Surfing is the kind of sport where the person sits out past the break and is waiting for a wave to come so they can paddle and try to catch it before it breaks so that they can ride it and get a good ride. You just get out past the break and you sit on your board until you see a wave coming and then when you start to see waves coming you just get ready to start paddling and then you try and throw yourself into the wave and try to stand up.
People in Hawaii made huge wood boards and would get in the water and paddle themselves out in the water and then paddle and ride the waves as they broke over the shallow sand or reefs. They were later made from lighter wood and wood soon become made out of fiberglass and epoxy. That is because they wanted to make surfboards more durable yet light weight and easy to carry and use. If they were not easy to carry and use then nobody would be surfing today because there are many people who have to walk for awhile before they can surf and nobody wants to carry a hundred pound wood surfboard. That would be horrible to have to carry a piece of wood down the beach until you got to your spot and then you jump in the water and the water just water logs the wood surfboard that is the main reason why I can see why people changed the surfboard.
Last update : 09-04-2009 19:11
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By: otutlmdmft () on 11-01-2010 21:33